Healthy curls are all about balance. But when your hair feels dry, limp, or frizzy, it’s not always clear what it needs - more protein or more moisture. Figuring out whether your hair needs protein or moisture can sometimes be a little confusing, especially if you are just starting out on your natural hair journey. 

In this first part of our 3-part series, we will explore what protein and moisture do for your curls, how to spot an imbalance, and how to begin your journey to healthy, balanced hair.

Why Balance Matters

Our hair’s structure is made up of 80% - 90% protein – keratin to be exact, while moisture gives it flexibility and softness. When one outweighs the other, your curls can feel weak, overly soft, dry, or brittle. Finding the happy middle ground between strength and hydration will keep your curls healthy, defined, and happy.

What Protein Does

Protein strengthens and rebuilds the hair shaft. It’s particularly helpful if you frequently style, colour, do a lot of protective styles, or manipulate your hair. Think of it as the foundation that gives your curls their structure and spring.

Although our hair is made up of protein, protein treatments are necessary to prevent any damage and making our hair stay structured in a healthier way. 

Protein Overload

Protein Overload is when there is too much protein being applied to the hair. If the cuticle structure around your hair is not strong enough, then it won't help to protect our curls. The healthier your cuticles are, the more resilient your curls will be from styling and heat etc. Having protein overload can tend to make our tresses stiff and dry, but by doing protein treatments, this will help to reinforce strength into the hair.

What Moisture Does

Moisture provides elasticity and smoothness. It’s what keeps curls touchably soft, shiny, and frizz-free. Without it, your curls can become dry, rough, and hard to manage.

Moisture Overload

Your hair needs moisture to retain elasticity, otherwise it will start to break off. Keeping your curls moisturised is needed for when doing any form of manipulation such as detangling or styling. Although moisture is needed to help retain length and strength, it is possible to have too much moisture. You may be moisturising too much throughout the week, applying too much product, your curls become too soft and mushy, and always using moisturising deep conditioning treatments every wash day. This is called Moisture Overload, which in turn can lead to breakage and split ends. 

How to Spot an Imbalance

An easy way to tell the difference is by doing the hair strand test. Whether you have used a sulphate or sulphate free shampoo, you can take this simple test after freshly washing your tresses to see exactly what your hair needs. Take a single strand of hair and gently stretch it between your fingers:

• If it snaps easily, your hair might have too much protein and needs more moisture.
• If it stretches but doesn’t bounce back, that is a sign of moisture overload — a little protein can help restore balance.
• If it stretches and springs right back, your hair is beautifully balanced — keep doing what you’re doing!

Next Up: Protein For Your Curls

Once you learn the different signs of your hair, it will become easier to give your curls what they need. In Part 2 of our series, we will focus on protein — and how our Strengthen Me range can help rebuild your curls from within for stronger and more defined results.

Naturally yours,
The Team at Flora & Curl